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Laptop LCD Flickering

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Read Latest Entries..: (Post #22) by issdiscovery04 on Feb 3 2007, 05:00 PM.
Most of the time when the inverter blows out, the large capacitor is just fine. Most often, one of the smaller ships or smaller capacitors blow out. From previous experiences, the same component on the same type of board ends up blowing out. For example, with compaq 1800T, one of the chips near the output side of the board usually blows out after 5-6 years....
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Open Discussion & Free Web Hosting > Computers & Tech > Hardware Workshop

Laptop LCD Flickering

WeaponX
OK, having major LCD issues on my laptop today. I have one of these no name brand (actually called Prostar) laptop that I bought a few years back. It's served me well and only giving problems here and there occassionally. Well, this one takes the trophy.

The screen is flickering light to dark background...I can still see as I'm typing this. It's just going into a darker contrast and back to normal. Then it will go completely black on me. Sometimes it comes back...when it doesn't, I close the lid and open it back up again. Again, sometimes this works, other times I have to shut and open the lid several times before it opens back up. The strange thing I noticed when it turns all black is that there are times when I can actually see the images in the back (just too dark to look at it normally). But most of the times it's just plain black (blank screen).

Does anyone know what part is bad? I tried to take apart the darn thing myself and see if I can maybe reseat the LCD cable but this doesn't sound like it could be the issue.

Thanks.

 

 

 


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xboxrulz
hmmm... apparently from other posts your laptop is falling apart. I think it's time to replace your laptop. (I wish mine fell apart faster, I need a new one tongue.gif)

xboxrulz

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vizskywalker
Some laptops have a power connection built into the hinge. Don't know if this does, but if wiggling the monitor has the same effect as opening and closing, it could be a problem with the hinge. Try and see.

~Viz

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Grafitti
I think your LCD is dying. I had this happen with a couple no-name brands, and once with a Dell.

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Jimmy89
also, if it isn't any switches, try connecting a external screen to your laptop to check its the graphics card that doing it!

just an idea!

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Mark420
I agree with Vis..its prolly a trapped connection in the hinge..same thing happs to monitor cables trapped in between desks.normally you get a loss of colour in one band ..or it cuts the power off..the way to prove it would be to hook it up to a normal monitor and see if the same problems are occuring..
Good Luck..

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WeaponX
Was hoping it was just an intermittent problem, but I tried again this morning. After a few minutes the screen started to go crazy again. I took the LCD apart (boy was that a nightmare) and did find a cable or two that ran into the middle of the hinge into the logic board (most likely). I wanted to open up the entire laptop and see how it was connected, but after I got the LCD part off, I was too frustrated to continue any further.

Is it worth the time to see if the LCD connector is ok? I will take the whole thing apart again if necessary. Otherwise, I was thinking of getting a replacement part (if it's not the entire LCD that's bad). I read up online about this and see people mentioning about some kind of bulb and LCD inverter. Would there be any chance that it could be the same thing here?

I have wanted to get a new laptop for a while now but kept saying I won't do so until this ancient beast dies out on me. Unfortunately, it went out on me at a bad time. Need to start saving up for a new laptop now sad.gif

I can't believe this, but I resorted to using an old iMac G3 that I had in the closet to go online here. I will try using a monitor from my sister's desktop computer and see how that works out. I'm pretty sure it's some kind of screen issue at this point.

 

 

 


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WeaponX
OK, I played around with it further today. I tested it with my regular CRT monitor and tried to turn off the LCD with the monitor toggle button on my keyboard...that didn't work. So I was working on two screens. The LCD turned itself off at times and flickered here and there, then turned back on. I just ignored it and worked using the CRT monitor. After a few hours I noticed that the LCD on my laptop is not flickering for the longest time. I unplugged the CRT monitor cable and have been working on the LCD itself for the past hour or so. Any ideas why this might be happening?

I was just about to go buy the LCD inverter first to see if that board might be bad.

I made sure it's not the hinge or anything so I adjusted the LCD in different angles when it was flickering, but that didn't seem to help.

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vizskywalker
It could be a problem with the Graphics Adapter. I had a board that had a bad graphics adapter and a similar problem. If that's the problem, maybe plugging in the CRT reset something, a short maybe, and it is now fixed. That is a best case scenario, however.

~Viz

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faulty.lee
If your CRT is working, that rule out the possibility if connection to the video section (some notebook has detachable "video card")

When your LCD is flickering or turning off, is it the backlight that's off or the whole screen?

If it's the LCD itself, then very likely is the connector from the LCD to the mother board, or sometime, it's connected through another small detachable board. That's the most common failing part. You can check it by taking out the keyboard or remove the cover above the keyboard, some model let you do that, so you can inspect the connection or do something else inside.

If it's the backlight, and it dim then turn off, it's not the connection anymore, very likely it's the onboard filtering capacitor. Are you still using the battery? I notice that the capacitor die faster if the battery is taken out, and operated on AC adapter for a longer period

I've repaired a few notebook, most of it due to capacitor problem. Replacing the capacitor will need to take out the whole board.

Good luck

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Latest Entries

issdiscovery04
Most of the time when the inverter blows out, the large capacitor is just fine. Most often, one of the smaller ships or smaller capacitors blow out. From previous experiences, the same component on the same type of board ends up blowing out. For example, with compaq 1800T, one of the chips near the output side of the board usually blows out after 5-6 years.

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WeaponX
Basically giving up on this now. I got the screen and board last week (same part number and everything) but for some unknown reason (maybe just bad luck), the inverter board is different and so is the LCD's data cable. The connectors for the cables are not matching to what I have so I can't reconnect them back.

I might just send in my inverter board and have it repaired if it's damaged.

By the way, I tried looking for that big capacitor on the inverter board, but couldn't find anything that could be it. Nothing mentioning uF in them that I can see either and most are just small chips.

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faulty.lee
QUOTE(WeaponX @ Jan 26 2007, 11:17 AM) *

No problem faulty.lee. Thanks for the followup smile.gif

I read up on some site that mentions replacing the transformer wires. I saw their pictures and the whole transformer piece is filled completely with all those wires in 4-8 sections. That's what led me to believe that the piece is going bad.

I don't recall seeing any big capacitors on the inverter board itself. Just curious, when you say solder another cap parallel to the current one, do you mean basically making them join together at the joint area? Just want to know what you mean since I'm new to soldering.

Anyway, the whole LCD and inverter board was already ordered and I'm still waiting for it to come in.

I won't recommend playing with the transformer, further more, these transformer seldom fail since they're low current type.

Big capacitor, as in bigger than normal, sometime they're solid type, square, with some marking on top. Look for something like 105(1uF), 106(10uF), 476(47uF) and the like.

Parallel as in (+) of original cap connect with (+) of the new cap, as so on for the (-). That way, it will add up the capacitance. If it was the capacitor's issue, then, doing this will help reduce/eliminate the problem, that way you'll know which to change.

Anyway, it's always easier to just change the whole board if you can get hold of one. Good luck

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WeaponX
No problem faulty.lee. Thanks for the followup smile.gif

I read up on some site that mentions replacing the transformer wires. I saw their pictures and the whole transformer piece is filled completely with all those wires in 4-8 sections. That's what led me to believe that the piece is going bad.

I don't recall seeing any big capacitors on the inverter board itself. Just curious, when you say solder another cap parallel to the current one, do you mean basically making them join together at the joint area? Just want to know what you mean since I'm new to soldering.

Anyway, the whole LCD and inverter board was already ordered and I'm still waiting for it to come in.

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faulty.lee
QUOTE(WeaponX @ Jan 23 2007, 11:02 AM) *

I tried everything already and the warranty has expired already. The tech support for the laptop will not provide much help...as usual. They want me to send it in for repairs at $85 per hour for labor plus parts...no thanks.

At this point, I'm pretty sure it's the inverter board because the laptop actually still has the backlight on at times when I turn it on. I would assume that if the backlight is bad, it won't ever turn on again unless it was replaced.

Anyway, I ordered the whole LCD assembly yesterday since it was for a good price. Will use what I need and resell the other good parts online.

Thanks for all the help. I will post some kind of followup to this once I receive the parts for it.


Hi, sorry for the late reply, just got back. Yes, the capacitor is the same as those on the mother board. the missing chunk in the inverter "transformer" as shown in the picture is normal, it's for isolation, since after the transformer, the voltage is quite high to lit the fluorescent tube.

Just parallel the capacitor you found, those bigger than normal one. If you found some improvement after paralleling it, then you replace.

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